Hi folks, hope you’re still following this series and haven’t gotten too bored with the whole thing! Today’s post is a quick one about the skirt lining and some of its features.
Full disclosure: I wasn’t planning on having a skirt lining at all, the dress was going to just be on top of the underskirt with a regular hem. I bought horsehair braid for a nice crisp hem and everything. But then I changed my mind.
I wanted a bubble hem – to keep the volume of the skirt all the way down to the ground and give it more of a rounded, bubble appearance. To get the bubble effect, you make the lining narrower and shorter than the skirt, and join them together right sides together. The skirt is gathered onto the lining and the whole seam is hidden on the inside.
The point is, this can only work with a lining because it has to be held up from the inside all the way round. So, I cut a lining, following the shape of the original skirt (luckily I had metres and metres of fabric).
Here it is, wrong side out over the underskirt. You can see that I’ve made it narrower at the hem by simply tapering the seam allowance. Note that this only happens in the bottom fifth of the skirt as the underskirt tulle wants to be unimpeded to produce the volume required above that.
Here it is the right way out, with a waistband made of ribbon. Look at that bubble shape!
Note the second line of ribbon below the waistband…
This is something I came up with while I was making it. Since the lining holds up the hem of the skirt, I wanted the option to shorten the lining in order to shorten the skirt in case that was required during the day (in order to switch to lower heels, for eg dancing).
The ribbon is held on to the back lining with ‘belt loops’, not sewn on.
The idea is that the lining can be hoiked up inside the dress by pulling it up and tying a bow tightly around the waist with the second row of ribbon. This will shorten the dress by about 10cm if done effectively.
You just untie the first set of ribbons, pull on the second set, and tie a new bow.
This obviously distorts the shape of the skirt, but I figured, since it would likely be towards the end of the evening, it wouldn’t matter.
What do you think? A reasonable idea or a pointless complication?
Next post on the dress itself coming shortly!